Inliners International Forums General Discussion Truck Talk Keroppi, my 1946 Chevy 3100

beater,

Not exactly just yet, although getting closer...the problem is definitely fuel related, but it is the air cleaner and carb itself. I see some gas is leaking at the base of the carb, and it wouldn't start with the air filter on it, so that needs to be upgraded to dry possibly...it's dry now, but supposed to have oil in it...

I could get it started by taking the air filter off, then I got a backfire when giving it some gas so turned it off. Then I noticed some gas around the base of the carb...that will need to be rebuilt. Got a new battery in, replaced the fuel bubble filter, but the carb seems to be a weak point.

I had this pic, but the number is gunked up...so will need to go down and clean it and get the model so I can get the right kit. I see a place online that has a complete kit with all parts and screws needed, but will get model to know for certain. Evidently some Carter YFAs are marked as YFs after they transitioned. Model number should be right above the casting on the bottom, along that flat.



Unfortunately as I work though getting it going reliably, I'm running into some of the basic maintenance that hasn't been done on this for years...

EDIT: Hmmm...interesting...I was trying to clean the carb up on the side to see if there was a model number hiding under there, but no...as I was doing that I thought to possibly just take the carb off the truck and bring it home and I noticed the mounting nuts were not very tight at all. This could account for the gas I saw around the base. I will check that when I get back down there, I had to swap the battery, and have that out already. I bought a 24F (negative on left side) which is correct, but the post running from the firewall to the front grill/radiator rests on the negative post...I didn't want to cross the cables to the battery, so returned it...but I didn't have a battery in it to test.

Those are all casting numbers. On Carter's the model number is found on tag affixed by a top cover screw:

The stamped number (in the carburetor body base - not the cast iron throttle base) can also be helpful in locating kits but this number can be shared across specific models.

regards,
stock49

'stock,

I don't have that, but I do have a label of some type that it is probably on. I will look at that and see if I can clean that off. If you look at this pic, that label on the left must have something under the grime.

I was so focused on looking in that area where it shows "stamped"...and I also saw on a site that some are stamped on the small wing (I think on the right).

That said, I really suspect the loose nuts were a part of the backfire and/or leaky gas out the bottom of the carburetor. I will try to get back down there tomorrow and check, I have the new battery in hand. Thanks for the info, will update when I find out more.



EDIT: stock, I think your image you posted is the carburetor that is supposed to be on my engine. However, I think the previous owner that swapped the engine in used the Carter YF that was on the 216 that was originally in the truck. The Carter 3211 YF was evidently designed for the later 235, so I have read. What is the difference, do you know? Is it the needle or valve?

Well, there is a definite problem with the air cleaner as well as the fuel pump Seems to run ok, but doesn't seem to be pumping fuel very well. Need to look at that.

After tightening up the nuts on the carb mount studs, there is no leaking and it seems ok. Once it's warmed up it will fire right up on the first crank. I put these videos together.

No fuel pump rebuild kits available (metal top), but there are fuel pumps available for $60, so ordered one as it needs 10 day lead time. That is definitely a part I want to refresh.



I did find the model number of my Carter YF carb, it's a 964S which was shipped on 216s. The late model 235 I'm told shipped with a Carter YF 3211 which has an automatic choke and uses a heat stove from the exhaust to the carb.

Anyone familiar with those carbs?

You can search for vacuum leaks by squirting some of your starting fluid on the carb base and the intake to head gasket while the engine is running. Any change in engine speed means a leak. Some fuel leakage on carb my go away when the gaskets soak up some moisture after sitting dry for so long. When you are changing the fuel pump bolt out the lines. A filter between your new pump and the tank might save it.

I will do that, just to eliminate any problems. That goes for the fuel pump also, I see some oil possibly around the block that I was sure if was wet or not...it looks pretty dry now and seems to work enough to get it running reliably. Fixing the air filter problem will help that.


I have to give a big thanks to Jim Carter once again. He's selling me a used glass top fuel pump at a great price. I'm going to get a hard line to go to my carb and he has the filter that goes inline up by the carb. The one I have requires a separate hose to connect it, this will be cleaner. Also getting an dry air filter which should fit in the old oil canister. It's 6-1/2" in diameter x 3" tall. I'm waiting for him to reply but think I can just pull the oil mesh top portion out and put this in and use a top plate with a wing nut. Then I only have one other piece to replace, that going from the fuel pump to the gas tank. Mine has some mickey mouse hillbillary used on that piece...

You have made me take another look at Jim Carter. I have bought parts there in the past but never asked any questions. I thought it was just a business with a guy's name like so many others.

Ok, I'm concluding that the fuel pump is my problem, and here's why. I went down and cranked it for about a minute with a couple breaks in between, I cranked it plenty and no start.

This is what the fuel bubble looked like:



I was amazed it wasn't Hencho en China...a bit of a shocker! That bubble is almost bone dry! I know I could spray starter fluid in the carb and once it gets going the fuel pump will most likely be able to pump enough to keep it running, just like it did the past couple days...but the video from yesterday shows the lack of fuel in the bubble while it's running as well. And, FWIW...Bosch was able to have the product made in Israel and be able to sell the product on the counter to me for less than $6. This concept that we can't survive unless we embrace China is a bit over the top, IMO.

RE: Jim Carter Truck Parts

Jim met a local guy that has a '37 Ambulance he drives, and a '37 Canopy he sometimes shows. Remembered him 20+ years later, the guy bought most of his parts to restore both of them from Jim. They are just very helpful, and he did offer to sell me a used fuel pump, but found a NOS in box, never used so I bought that. If I send a message to their ebay account, Jim answers, sometimes late in the evening after he's gotten home. The starter was another case in point, he rebuilt my 6v as a 12v so I would have the correct drive gear. And he turned it around in a couple days after getting my core.

There could also be an air leak in a fitting or the line between the tank and the pump. The line could be plugged with crap stirred up from being disturbed after sitting so long or if there is no filter between the tank and pump the pump it's self may be full of crap.

Jim Carter sounds like the kind of outfit we have too few of today. Someone who enjoys the business he is in and gives great service in rare anymore. It's partly our fault fo usually shopping for the cheapest part. I'm guilty.

I was getting fuel when I started pulling the rubber off the hard line, so pretty sure it's clear but I will be replacing everything back to the tank as well. I need to ground the sender and hook the sender wire up to it as well.

I wish I would have read on Stovebolt earlier, I probably would have just switched over to an external electric fuel pump, they are cheaper and probably better in the end.


He is a good guy, but I'm sure there are people that felt they were screwed by them in the past and won't do business with them...the world is like that...because even a guy that will bend over backwards to take care of people will occasionally run into someone that just can't be pleased, or even <gasp> make a mistake themselves. He's been helpful to not only me, but others I know, so that does speak some about the guy. They're a small shop, less than a dozen people I'm pretty sure.

When I was a parts counter guy I had people who would get pissy because I didn't know what part they needed for something that had modified by persons unknown. Or even worse the customer didn't know the year or other info for the car they were driving. " Oh, I think it's a '79 or maybe a '97, they were all the same back then." There are lots of people out there who don't even know enough to ask a relevant question and think they are so important that the rest of us spend our waking hours plotting against them. The customer is not always right but a good businessman makes them think they are.

Now to make things worse for them they probably deal with a lot of people like me...it's not that I'm trying to be dumb with them, just that the truck is 73 years old, it doesn't even have the engine in it that was supposed to be there, and the one it has is put together with a different year block and head. Guys over at the VCCA don't consider mine to be original as it has parts on it that were not originally on this truck, yet my truck is actually more original than one that is completely restored...mine hasn't been repainted, just more paint slopped on with a brush...my interior is not pristine, with shiny new paint and everything looking like it did in '46, no sireee...yet mine is original from '46...

This is to say, some people drive their trucks/cars to places other than a car show, and, that $#!T breaks over time and we fix it the best we can...

Bringing this back to the parts vendors...finding a good one that has run into similar issues goes a long way to solving one's problems. They have seen similar issues, they know what people have typically done to these trucks, they know how to fix some of the issues that need modern solutions as many of the older ones are not available anymore.

I spend about 3 hours a day on the phone chasing parts. I realize that most of my parts are one off. I also understand it takes a while and will be expensive. Most of the big name "custom" shops are not interested in making parts if they are not going to sell 500 of them. I thought that was what custom meant. You have to find that one guy that not only will but wants to make your part. Usually and old guy. Most of them hang up on you when you say inline six. I'm building a pretty good network of these people because they seem to know of each other. It took me a week to find one guy to make my oil pan for my 292. $1500 and 6 weeks. I'm perfectly fine with that.I should have it in a couple of weeks.

Custom and new replacement part is code talk for Chinese knock off. Finding someone who can "fix" a worn or broken part or make a missing one is becoming very rare.

Indeed that is more important for me as I plan to keep most things original, but one never knows what the future will bring to me...Maybe better stated would be era correct, as I am not adverse to putting better parts on my truck.

As an example, I was pondering over the electric fuel pump and I think in the future something I would consider is using 2 tanks, each with their own electric fuel pump and have a toggle switch on the dash to flip the power between each fuel pump. This is how my flat bed is setup from the factory, it has 2 tanks. My ultimate plan would be to add a saddle tank under the bed and refurb/replace the tank under the seat, that would give some decent range of mileage the truck is capable of driving.

I think 'mick makes a valid point though, it is harder to find people to work on an Inline 6 than it is a V8. More importantly, these shops that call themselves "Custom" don't make "Custom" parts most of the time, they just add aftermarket parts...A lot of folks swap a V8 in their beloved trucks, so that does happen also...I just don't see myself going into such complex conversions and will most likely stick with what I have in it right now. I drool at some of the pics mick posts, but I certainly can't afford to do something like that at the moment. I'm actually lucky to have the truck, given I'm trying to build a house that has pretty much drained my entire savings and has put me into even more debt than I had...

The local Bay Area Inliners were a great bunch of folks to meet, and even mentioned a couple places that will do work on these beasts if one desires...but a lot of the fun for me is in doing it myself, even if it takes me 4 times as long to do so. These old trucks are a heck of a lot easier to work on than their modern counterparts...

I have a '68 C-20 flatbed, originally a camper special. Originally it had a 327 and someone put a 350 -350 in it. The V8 died a few weeks ago so now I can build the 292 L6 I've been planning for years. It will get several truck up grades and be a good vintage work truck. It will be better than when it was new and nowhere near the cost of a new one.

What I'm trying to say is your truck is not a valuable collector's item. It is not stock and if you spent lots of time and money to "restore" it would not be stock it would be restored. They are only stock once! It is however a survivor and mostly the changes that have been made were done to keep it doing what it was built to do and make it a better truck. If you continue along those lines you won't go wrong.

About the brushed on paint, a friend in high school bought a '47-'48 Chevy woody. The metal was brush painted black and the wood was thickly brushed pink. We made fun of him until we helped strip the paint from the wood. It was near perfect. It was one of the nicest woodies around and he got it for almost nothing. By the way in the beginning they were all brush painted.

Yeah, I'd really like to get an old Chevy flatbed, but I have too many things on my plate at the moment, and I will be content with the 1/2-ton. I was looking at a '46 flatbed to use as a flat bed, but finally realized I am much better off with a 1/2 ton, that's really what I want to drive around. Most of the time I just haul light stuff.


Do keep us posted on this, would like to see some pics if you have...I had a '64 C-10 when I was young, bought it in Oregon from an old farmer...had a gun rack inside the rear window, as most every truck did in those days (late '70s). I was sure sorry when I sold it, I bought a VW van, ran the oil out and seized it up on the freeway...was left with nothing...LOL The guy I sold it to put about $3k into it and made it a kick @$$ work truck...


Exactly, and that is what I was after in the end. I was wanting to buy a '42, was restored in pristine condition, but had a 235 with a Fenton dual intake and the rear end changed. Really nice truck, but wasn't working and no cash...after I got a job I was working 50 hour weeks and ended up with enough cash in pocket to buy what I have. My wife wasn't happy as the first one was really nice, it was also $23k. I paid $8.5k for the one I have, so quite a difference...


I am going to try and take the brushed on paint off, eventually. I kinda like it the way it is for the time being. I need to decide what to do about the rust and how to best get it cleaned up, but would like to see if I can remove the top rustoleum and spray clear matte over it. And before that I will most likely swap the ring/pinion over. I have a lot to do, but just takin' one piece at a time.

This is not original either, it has a newer 235 in it with the Fenton and the nice interior, the VCCA would frown on that...

The way I got my wife to agree to me buying a truck, she says I tricked her...but I told her this was like buying a brand new 1942 truck, and that $23k was not a lot of money. I was planning to drive it as my daily driver. I told her with proper maintenance I didn't think I could wear it would in the rest of my life.

Keroppi is like the poor man's version of this truck...some assembly and TLC required...

I pulled the fuel pump and disassembled it tonight. The rubber doesn't look too bad, but it's grunged up and the valves don't appear to be working.

I think if I use a needle nose I can get the valves apart and clean it.

I'll tell you kinda what I'm thinking...for $25 I can get 2 of these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00496RE82/

Fabricate a plate to fit over the old fuel pump, mount 2 pumps right there, and run the power up to a toggle switch on the dash. Then run 2 tanks with a toggle to flip between them. That's pretty much what my Ford flat bed does but with high pressure fuel injection V8. This would be the low pressure version for the single barrel using the above low pressure fuel pumps.

In regard to the distance from the fuel tank due to the low pressure pumps being better at push than pull, I think a better place for the fuel pumps would be the old battery tray, under the passenger seat, I can mount the 2 pumps there and they would be close to both of the tanks.

Don't you think that would be better?

Also, I think I figured out what that setup on the '42 above is. Those must be the Carter Weber 2 barrel carbs that Langdon sells, those are the same air filter covers he sells also...

That looks like a bad @$$ setup...but I'll be honest, I don't know if I need that much power, and in fact the 3211 must be more than enough for my needs. I'm not a real hot rodder, I'm more after reliability and having the proper carb. Anyone running dual 3211s on a Fenton intake?

Too much yappin' and not enough turnin' screws...

Seems the valves were cruded up and not flowing...I think this is going into evaporust tomorrow.

Yes, put the pumps near the tanks. make sure the power to them comes off the the ignition switch so you can turn them off with the key. If there is an under hood fire you don't want to have to think about shutting off the furl supply.

Just wondering why you don't put the battery back in the original place. I left mine there. It is sometimes a pain but battery access is not needed often and it isn't in the way. One of the things I like the best about my sixes is the easy access to the plugs and distributer dour a tune up. Also to the dip stick, fuel pump and fuel filter.

Years ago I started a thread here about my flatbed. It was mostly about the engine plan which was a turboed, throttle body injected, 292 truck. I built a megasquirt mother board to run the injection but just gave up on making it work. When I get the 292 in the truck I may take another look at it. LINK

I wonder if it would be possible to use the connection off the alternator that goes to the ignition to determine if the alternator is running flips the dummy light on/off? I'm not sure how one would do that, but it seems there must be a way.



No particular reason, other than it's a PITA to lift the floor panel as it doesn't come all the way off, you need to tilt it open and prop it up unless you remove the pedals/shift/brake. My floor needs to be knocked into shape with a hammer and the tray is all rusted. I did get another battery to fit the tray also, but the new battery would fit under the floor. I can't think of any plus to move it back other than it frees up the firewall for something else. I'm gaining the voltage regulator space though. I agree access is not needed often, but I have been accessing it quite a bit recently.


I've owned cars you had to lift the engine to change the plugs. The 911 doesn't have a lot of space and it's a real chore to set the valves as you have to remove a few things to get access...this looks fairly straight forward to set the lash.

BTW, I hadn't realized this, but a guy pointed out to me that I have solid lifters, and that some people prefer that for higher performance. I had been under the impression that I have hydraulic, but that is also another quirk about my truck.


A local Inliner, I think he might be the President of the Bay Area Inliners, but he has a C20 (I believe) with a 292 in it. He bought it with only 60k miles on it and it had been sitting in a barn for most of it's life not running. He mentioned they run more efficient and get better gas mileage with a dual intake, but he only had a single carb on his. He did add headers and dual exhausts that made it rumble nicely.

I had a '40 pickup many years ago. I don't remember where the battery was. I thought yours be be like the ADs under the floor on the passenger side close to the starter. The access door has a loop handle that you turn to latch and un latch and it comes completely out. I'm going to use one of them on my '26 roadster.

beater,

This is one area where they improved a number of annoying characteristics of the AK Series when they moved to the AD. On the AK Series, the floor is one large piece that spans the drivers and passenger area, so it's not as easy to open. The battery is in a tray under the passenger floor, I believe the same place as the AD. Even with the battery mounted on the firewall, there's still a crap load of room to work on the engine.

Another area they improved was to be the access panel on the driver's side firewall so you can access the back of the dash without having to contort into a pretzel. They also removed some of the cool features that I personally like, such as the crank out windshield, but arguably the solid window is a much more stable design, as is the top opening hood, it is those features that drew me to the AK Series. I wouldn't mind having an Ak Series 'burb, those are pretty darn cool...

My fuel pump is in the Jacuzzi...





And being the bottom feeder that I am, I picked up this vintage set of flaring and swagging tools with a pipe/tube cutter and simple bender. $26 on Ebay.

Try as I can I can not find a removable access panel on the firewall of my '53 AD or any of the other AD Cabs sitting around here. Do you have a picture of one? I'll feel soooo dumb if I've spent so many hours in the cramped space behind the dash when there was easy access.

Well, maybe I'm mistaken, but thought it was on the firewall by the steering. On the AK Series there's a voltage regulator hanging on the firewall and I was under the impression that is where the AD has an access panel. stock49 was the one that mentioned it here recently.

I could have left this stuff in longer, but it got most everything clean. Just a bit of grease left on the outside. I blew through the valves to make sure they're working and they seem to be. I can blow in through the flat side with the cross on it...opposite side of the brass cap. NOTE: even after soaking overnight in Evapo-rust, the fuel pump still tastes like gasoline... but I know they work in one direction, everything assembled back together.




NOTE: on this pic notice I traced the gasket so I could make a cover for the hole when I replace the fuel pump with the electric pump I ordered.

Oh yeah, that's what I like to see...MAGA and keep us great!



Good service, ordered Monday early afternoon, arrived at 10:30am this morning.

Hopefully this fits right on and is good to go!



Indeed it fits and is good to go!



Good riddance!

NOTE: before you get your panties in a wad, I'm j/k and will put this on ebay and sell it for $500...

Ok, the fuel pump seems to be working ok. Saved myself $65 and got the air filter mounted, which was eazy-peazy...

Good work! Sounds good. Drive it!

That's the plan, but need to get the registration finalized first. Once I can get it down to the scale to get it weighed, and get it to the DMV to verify the VIN I'll have a complete registration.

Now you have me pondering if I can get it to the scale tomorrow...I think it's about 20 miles to the scale, so 40 miles round trip. If it would get that far, it might be able to make it to the DMV which would be another 10 miles. My other choice is try to trailer it. I don't have a registration, but do have a faded temp in the windshield and all the paper work. I'm paid in full, just pending this weigh and VIN verification. I can only drive it during the day as none of the lights work, and of course that I wouldn't get stopped.

Here we can have a police officer check the vin. Would that help? Any trip you don't have to make to the DMV is a good thing. Even the bad cops are better than the DMV.

A typical VIN check will only show fairly recent:
1. stolen
2. registered
but probably not
3. owned by someone else, but not registered
4. lien against title

I'm not exactly clear, but it seems a CHP can verify it, the problem is I'm not sure there is a CHP by the area, there is a public scale on the freeway, but they won't weigh it, I need to take it to a certified scale as they say the one on the freeway is only for large trucks on the highway. The DMV is the other option, pretty close, so I was just thinking of taking it over there.

Today is not stacking up well to take it over, I'm busy with some work stuff...*sigh* I've worked so little in the past couple years I should be thankful...



panic,

Yeah, they have already done that much, they need the physical verification of the actual VIN on the vehicle. The truck was last registered in MO. The CA DMV is requiring me to have it weighed and get the VIN verified. All the rest of the paperwork has been taken care of.

I had to have mu '40 weighed in California to determine if I needed car or commercial plates. if it weighed under the limit I could have regular plates but haul only "personal" loads like groceries or camping gear. The never bothered me over anything I ever had in it. I Nevada now we have to report the milage we drive every year in order to license for the next year. Not far from here to a luxury tax for extra road use.

For that very reason I'm registering it as a commercial vehicle, I want it to function as a truck. I was told if you register it as a car you can't carry anything in the bed. I don't know how true that is, but that's what the DMV told me. However, they also told me that '46 needs 2 plates and on the form it clearly states that '45 and '46 only needs 1 plate (I didn't see on there at the time).

I am going down to the yard tomorrow for certain and will see about possible driving it first to see how comfortable I would be driving it, or think about loading it on the tilt-top trailer and taking it for a maiden voyage. I haven't hauled with it since getting it all functioning with new tires.

Well, I got down and was thinking maybe driving to the scale would be a decent excursion for the pickup, and it did fire up and continue to fire so the fuel pump seems like it may have fixed the problem I was having.

I got the trailer setup but seems I lost the mounting bolts for the winch...

A trip to Home Depot and $9 later had me some grade 8s with lock washers and nuts, but not without getting stuck in traffic for a police related shooting (so I found out later). It was dark by the time I got the nuts and bolts. Originally it used square nuts inside the feet of the winch, so hopefully this works ok, they didn't have any square nuts.

Going back tomorrow and will attempt get the pickup loaded on the trailer and haul it to the scale.

Well, after some running back and forth to the hardware store, then ordering 10mm square nuts from McMaster, but only to find out that two of the legs were smaller...I got it mounted and have the pickup on the trailer waiting to be hauled down to the scale.

Keep in mind, this is a huge milestone...Being the bottom feeder that I am, the trailer needed tires, winch needed a solenoid, hitch on flat bed needed work...as did adding a brake controller for the trailer brakes...battery not as good as it can be, but using the charger with it while the winch is running. I'll need to get another battery for the winch.







PS - I should add, the fuel pump seems to be working fine, I pulled the choke out all the way, pumped the pedal 3 times, hit the starter and 2nd crank it fired. Pushed in the choke to about 1/2 or 1/3rd quickly and it idled nicely until warm.

Well, I did get it weighed, 3000 lbs. on the nose, but I had 2 jack stands and 2 wheel chocks inside the bed, forgot about that...no worries...

3000 lbs. is the cutoff for commercial requirement, although I already registered it commercial as I want to use it like a truck, but 30 lbs. shouldn't cost me much more as I'm already commercial. In contrast my 911 weighs 3200 lbs. and is about 1/3rd the size, and coincidentally goes about 3 times as fast...LOL

It was a long day...no power at the scale, but the office let me plug in my battery charger and park the flatbed and trailer by the door to get it off...

Ran pretty good on smooth pavement. I've only driven it on the rough highway and the dirt turnaround by my yard.

Finally getting it back on the trailer turned out to be difficult for the winch to pull the rear tires up on the trailer to finish winching it up. I'll need to make some ramps for it. It was able to winch it up at the yard, but could have had something to do with the angle of the ground. A couple guys helped lift/push the rear tires on the trailer and the winch was able to pull it up and upright the tilt-top.

Then after all that I was pretty beat, but went over to the DMV in hopes I could finish getting it registered...no such luck, the DMV is never easy to deal with... Even though I could open the hood on the passenger side, and the VIN plate was at frickin' eye level, the morons couldn't verify it "on the trailer". She told me I could talk to her manager if I like, but she was yet another moron that told me the same thing. DMV is about 10 miles from the yard. I'll try to drive it over there, possibly tomorrow and get those morons out of my hair. I want to finalize this and get the tags, so they don't tell me, "sir, you need a weight certificate within the last 30 days..."...BTDT...

Great news!

I had a somewhat similar thing happen at the DMV section at AAA. I'd paid my registration via check through the mail. Great. Needed a smog test, 1991 Cherokee Laredo that hadn't ran in about a year. Got it smogged and it passed with flying colors. Instead of waiting for DMV to mail the sticker I went to AAA to get the sticker. They said they couldn't give me the sticker, that I would have to wait for DMV to mail it. So I keep my paperwork with me in case I get pulled over so I can show them that it is registered.

I'm gonna try and get it over to the DMV tomorrow...we'll see how that goes...