Inliners International Forums General Discussion Engines New cam install on 235

Just trying to gather more feedback before the install. I currently have a camshaft on the road from Patrick. Its the one he calls the 3/4 cam with the 252 intake and 264 ex. I was wondering what others might think of it with my setup prior to me installing it. I called Crane today and they are highly recommending a camshaft that's 254 intake - 254 ex for the low to mid torque gain.

I have a 55 l6 bored over .40, dual intake with progressive 2 barrels from Tom L, Fenton headers, HEI from Tom L, #145 T5 trans, smaller than stock tires at 235/60r15 and a 3.08 rear (soon to be installed) but currently using a 3.73.

I will do some highway driving and the 3.08 should put me in the 1800rpm area when doing 65mph. Most driving is street. What i like most is having get up and go power. Don't like the idea of having the thing scream at 3200 to get good torque as im told some camshafts will do. My driving habits and the way it runs now has me shifting around the 2500 mark as the current torque drops off at 2000rpm. The engine revs very nice and easily gets to 4000.

Patrick's 254/264 is the 'bulldog cam' (254/264 Delta Cam Shafts Grind) and works great as a street engine with a (bored) 261, 3.55 rear, 3 speed trans without overdrive and dual 216 carbs and headers. Tire diameter variation to taste.

For a 235, even if bored 40, its a lot of cam with peak torque curve starting around 3000 rpm.

Add a 3.08 rear and instead of 'get up and go power' you have 'slow-motion'.

Even a 261 would lug with that cam and rear ratio at lower rpm.


The bulldog cam in a 235 turns it into a racer needing easier breathing and 3.73 or 4.11 rear with 4 or 5 speed trans.

Currently with my 5 speed 1st ratio is 14.02. It's such a pain having that granny gear. I went with the t5 everyone was suggesting but that was based running 30" dia stock tires. A 3.08 will make first 11.6. I'm using second to take off now with no issues and that's at 9.8 or something.

Over the years I have run 235 cams that are generally in the 480 lift 278-280 duration, with the most recent 261 build at 292 lift and 278 duration, all street motors, occasionally a trip down the strip--very occasionally these days. These are what I would call large cams that do not begin to make power until 1800 rpm. I like a lot of rumpty rump with my cams and am willing to deal with the higher rpm needs, rough and higher idle, a little more maintenance in terms of adjusting valves, and the added wear and tear these cams will exert on the other components. That being said, I had a Chet Herbert regrind, 280/480 (I still have the receipt that says R31 grind but to be honest I don't know whether they sent me a cam ground by someone else or not. Remember the ads, regrind any cam 39.95. That is how I got it) that I put in a 235 motor in 1986 that I still have and that I was fairly hard on and never had a moments problem with. But the fact is, like the others have stated, you need some gear to make them work. A 3:08 will not get you there in any way shape or form. What you will have is a fat lazy pig, that can not get out of its own way, at least in my very humble opinion. You are correct in thinking that a 9 for a first gear multiplier is about right (so it does not suprise me you are starting out in second gear). So maybe you can get away with it. I actually think you need to be in a slightly higher, numerically, range, 3:20 something, 3:55. I have always run 3:55-4;11 gears with these cams. That being said, you are saddled with a couple of realities with these motors. They do not really like a lot of rpm and the rods are not really good past 5500 rpm. I have gone higher but it always worried me. The stock head essentially runs out of air around 5200-5300 rpm, maybe even a little lower, at least in my experience. The exhaust flow stalls around .300 and then picks up because of a little bump in the exhaust chamber. Other issues too. I think you probably want something with a good lift, reasonable duration and an appropriate overlap. One of the better resources you might consider for cams is Schneider cams in San Diego. Still in business, ask for Jerry Cantrell, he has done a lot of these cams over the years and can give you very good advice as to what you should consider. He has done the last couple of my cams, can do regrinds. Just some random thoughts.

X2 on Schneider folks. They bent over backwards to help me with one of their cams I bought USED on ebay. They didn't make a dime off their assistance.

Talked to Jerry. He said a 258 intake 258 ex would be best for what im looking for when trying to keep the power to the low and mid range. How would the 254in 254ex from delta compare? My understanding if i use the 3/4 one i ordered from Patrick due to the 252 intake 264 exhaust it would be better suited for higher rpm range.

If you don't mind me asking, and please don't take this in any way other than my being curious, but why are you still trying to sort out the Delta cam or some other company's cams. You just got to directly speak to one of the better authorities in the field about a very old motor, that few people have any experience with anymore, especially with cams, and now have a valuable resource that will guide you through the cam selection process and stand by the product he sells, now you want to take chances on using some else grinds as being compatible or comparable? Bite the bullet my friend and order a cam from Schneider. If you give him the proper information, he will grind you the proper cam and customer service is tops.

Im not doubting his info at all. Just gathering info and trying to fully understand why people are suggesting different things. Im not saying this guy is right and this guy is wrong.

The only reason i got the cam from Patricks was because i ordered a bunch of other valve train components and other things and i figured why the hell not get a from him at that moment. I was prob pushed into it a bit by him but that was the one he swears by from the different grinds that he offers. Since my order over a month ago (and still waiting for it to ship)i have found more info on possible other grinds that might work better for me.

And in no way am i trying to sound like an ass but the waiting time is over 3 weeks to have it made and the cam is 2x the cost then from others. And im not saying its not worth it so please don't take it that way. He is now another candidate for me to order from now.

Im also building a 261 that i just got so i can always use the Patrick's cam in that one for now if i wanted.

I hear you on the wait time and the costs! Because I like a good bit of rumpety rump I like to have my cams cut with a little tighter lobe angle to get that sound. I like that sound as opposed to the sound of loud mufflers so having a cam ground at schneider is my way of getting that. Much success with your build!

ANY cam up to 264 advertised duration (220-range @ .050 lift) will be a massive improvement over stock! That said, with STOCK compression, I would base my selection on WHERE THE INTAKE VALVE CLOSES, the EARIER the valve closes, the LONGER the compression stroke - MORE time to compress the a/f charge. Closing the intake LATER allows for more cylinder filling at a higher RPM, thus moving the torque and HP curves upwards in the band.

Schneider Cams have been in my backyard for 50+ years, and I have NEVER herd a negative comment about them! I run their 'iron-cross' decals on my '57 Chevy, despite the CROWER cam in my 235. TWICE, I have been snake-bit by Crower parts, and I wouldn't buy a cotter pin from them! I will go to Schneider for my 261 build - regrind both the cam and lifters. Depends IF I want to spend the $$$ for forged pistons for more compression, how big of a cam I'll run...

Tom Langdon knows these engines like the back of his hand - as does Patrick! BUT, I would sidestep Patrick and order the cam direct from Tom - might be cheaper and faster!

I would also discuss with Tom about recurving the HEI - that might also help with power!

GOOD to see you here! Take Care, Tim