OK, well for small parts like the lifters I did them in a tumbler with steel shot and tungsten disulphide powder. I took them completely apart and put all the pieces in the tumbler, except the little valve disks, and ran it for 30 to 60 minutes. the steel balls hammer the TD into the surface. then I take them out and clean them off and removed all the caked on powder then run them on a bench grinder with a big buffing wheel that has the TD embedded in it.
For other parts like valve stems I stick them in a drill press and polish the stems with 9 micron micro finishing strips, Then buff on grinder wheel with super fine grit. to get a shiny smooth finish.then I clean it with brake clean, blow dry, and apply a thin coat of the TD spray, let the spray dry and them buff it on the bench grinder. Make sure you use a clean dedicated buffing wheel only for tungsten disulphide, you dont want to embed any grit. You have to be careful to not build it up, the thinnest coating is all you need . also did it to the valve guides with a brass brush chucked in a drill. Be sure to degrease all parts and not touch them before you apply the stuff. Brake clean will take it right off, so make sure you do all your cleaning of the areas first. the oil sticks to it nicely. you actually end up with only a .5 micron layer on the metal so the excess will end up in the oil, wont hurt anything. I fact I put a table spoon of the powder in a quart of oil and add it to the crankcase occasionally. I coated the cam real good and bottoms of lifters. Also put it on all the engine bearings. make sure you don't have build up on the bearings as it can take up the clearance. the metal should have a greenish tinge to it when you have it very thin. Let me know if you want more detail. I polished most metal parts to a smooth shiny finish before coating particularly the working surfaces, so everything is like prebroke in.
Last edited by Vman; 05/17/15 09:47 PM.
