Inliners International Forums General Discussion Blown and Injected snowman4839 turbo build

Well I got a running engine. Drove 10 hours today and took it home. Planning on just swapping the head off of the old motor and putting it on this one. Maybe this block will last longer with the new fuel system.

I really hope the head gasket I put on the old engine will still be good since All I did was spray the copper sealer on it and put the head on without running it. Hope it wasn't a waste of a $60 head gasket :-/

Once you have torqued the gasket It's not really good to reuse it.Just my 2cents.

Anyone know where to get a oil pan gasket set that includes the rear seal like this?



This was the one that it came with and it fits my old block but not the new block that I got.

That main cap isn't machined for a seal, it looks like a factory boo-boo and was overlooked for that portion of the manufacturing process. Look at the rear main cap on your other block to compare. Bet you didn't see that one coming....

Use ultra black RTV to seal that factory mess up.

That head gasket should be fine if only torqed down and never ran. For the dyno engines, the same gasket was used for all head changes with never a problem.

Well is using that black sealer my only option?

I left for college and am currently living 3 hours away from my car :-( but I'll continue to work on it when I can.

No, you could always use your other engine. The RTV sealer will be fine. Just clean the cap and oil pan flange really well and it will be fine, I don't use the rubber end rail gaskets like that on any engines I build.

I know it's been awhile y'all but college gets in the way of car buildlin'.

Made it home this weekend, got the oil pan, valve cover, side panels, carb, and turbo all back on. Gettin pretty close to being able to put it back in. Shouldn't be more than a week or two if I can go back home each weekend.

Glad to see you still got the drive to get-er-done.


MBHD

This is great guys! We've got a college kid who goes home on week ends to work on his hot rod. The whole world isn't going down the tubes.

Snowman,

Don't want to rain on your parade but, looks as if your drain back is at the #1 rod and low to the bottom of the pan. Should be at a main cap and 45* angle to the pan side up at the bolt flange of the pan. So oil spraying out of the rod and oil flow back to the sump will not block the return line flow.

Keep up the good work you doing a great job, I may be wrong but I would not take a chance, since the engine is out of the car.

Harry

dont that rubber seal fit into the rear cast groove (rearward of where it is shown) thereby uncovering the machined slot allowing for rear main bearing oil drainage back into the oil pan?

It appears that this cast groove would align with the oil pan (where the rubber part is supposed to seal the pan to the main cap.) No machining would be required as the rubber should conform to the "as cast surface".

He just has the seal moved away to the side and layed on top of the cap to show the portion of the cap where the seal actually goes isn't machined. He compared it to his other engines rear main cap that is machined in that location, thats why he pointed it out and was confused why one was and the other one was not machined.

Thanks for the support guys.

Turbo-6 - I've used this same setup before with the other engine and I know it works. I just swapped out the block that has a good rotating assembly. The head, manifolds, dizzy, pan, covers, etc. are all from the old engine

and yes y'all, I just trimmed down another rubber seal and used a lot of black sealer around it but I got it to fit this time.

Should be heading back this weekend to get it in the car and finally get the new fuel system all buttoned up with it!

Went back home again this weekend. Got the engine and tranny back in. Should just need one more weekend to button up the rest of the engine install and finish hooking up the fuel system.

My new favorite picture

Looking Good!

Nice to see it's going back together.

Looks good.

MBHD

Where do you run the oil supply line from the engine to the turbo?

Hey ya'll I know it's been awhile but I finally got back from college for the Christmas break and have been going ham on the car. Got then engine back in and hooked up, new fuel system hooked up, carb relatively tuned right. Been enjoying it at 10psi for the past week and it's a bunch of fun. Made a few videos of it going down the road. I'm gonna do a overview video sometime soon to show it's current state.

Fly by (engine sound)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vIfmZ1r_QGU&list=UUWctOnJoE2bQXMcaHqiwpdA&index=3

Highway roll ons
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vMnYFo5Ro1s&list=UUWctOnJoE2bQXMcaHqiwpdA&index=1

Ride along/overview/roll ons
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CsqAydlceco&list=UUWctOnJoE2bQXMcaHqiwpdA&index=2

Looks good, only thing that kind of confuses me is if there is a reason you're still running your old fuel system with your new? Seems like you could just go with the new fuel system to me maybe... But I'm not any super expert. Also a blow off valve will help protect your engine big time so may one to look into that investment in the future, and if your all about it sounding awesome blow off valves give a pretty distinct sweet sound. Just my .02 Glad you got it back on the road.

Nice work snowman, enjoyed the vids!

Glad you are back on the road. You have done all of this and my turbo project has not moved. You are having way too much fun. I'm really interested in your 4 on the tree setup.

Thats a real sleeper isn't it.

love the build man keep it up this is what i'm working towards!

not to divert but a page or two back you guys were discussing piston choice so my question is was there a settle ment on which would be better
1(mil the chamber and don't zero deck)
2zerodeck and mill the pistons)

if it was mill the pistons would tlowe be able to do that when i ordered them?

Its explained in more detail in your "Zero deck" thread on how the process is done.

You will find that often, to obtain your desired deck height, not only will the block need to be final decked by some amount, but most if not all of the pistons will need to be cut on one or either side as well to equalize them for zero or whatever you determine to be your objective.

would this be the correct phrase in which you speak of wise one?

hey hank,
i always see you mentioning methanol and i can tell you live by it how exactly does that work? i have a powerjection 3 that i will be running blow through and was curious how well that mixes with air how close to put it to the inlet of the T/B and how efficient are the tanks how long does... lets say a gallon tank last are you constantly filling it?

I am not good @ explaining things too well.
There is good info out there how the methanol injection works.

I use Alkycontrol http://www.alkycontrol.com/

I used to use Aquamist 1S system, but it does not deliver much volume or pressure w/there pump. They too have switch to better higher pressure/volume pumps made here in the US.

My nozzle is mounted just before the T/B.

I use the factory windshield wiper fluid sized tank, holds approx 2.5 qts.
With that size tank, I can run aprrox 6-8 1/4 mile passes.
Just a guesstimate though, I never really tried to see how long it lasted.
It all depends how much alky you are pumping into your engine, if you crank up the gain knob it will go fast but would be a waste.
You can get knock if you are injecting too much methanol.

I use 100% methanol & would highly recommend it to most anyone running a turbo or supercharger.

My Syclone engine is completely 100% stock untouched long block.
Cast pistons & all.
On pump crap 91 octane fuel, I can run 26 psi of boost pressure & have dyno tuned my Syclone w/methanol injection.
Peak torque was 604 ft lbs, because of the torque multiplication from the torque converter then settled down to 450 ft lbs from 3300 - 4800 RPM 396 hp peak & averaged 375 HP over a wider range.
These readings are taken @ the wheels w/a dynopak dyno.

I would say if you drive day to day w/a turbo & methanol injection, I would think a galllon would last a week, it all depends on a few things, if you are doing high speed long runs, it would not last that long, but if you drive halfway normal a gallon should last a while.
It is much much cheaper than filling up w/race gas all the time, who can afford that, not me for sure.

Methanol injection allows you to run @ race gas power levels @ a much lower cost.

MBHD

Yes, to obtain a zero deck on all 6 pistons correctly, it will be necessary to cut the block and/or most of all of the pistons using the methods I have described. You will find that just checking the pistons at the center of the cylinder, as most all people only know to do, they really aren't even getting as close as they think to obtaining it.

I'm about to get an intercooler here soon but I'm guessing I'm probably reaching the limits of the stock valvetrain. Would lump ports help at all at this point or should I just save the extra money and get the new turbo valvetrain?

You will make more power w/an intercooler than installing lumps.
You would make more power running methanol injection over an intercooler.
When you install an intercooler, you can run more boost.

When the air & fuel is being forced into the combustion chambers from your turbocharger, the port layout/design does not play as an important role as to a N/A engine does.

Save your money,get a cylinder head w/larger valves installed, stiffer springs, mild port job & a camshaft.

The stock camshaft you have is killing the possible HP you could possibly get amongst other things, IE valves too small, no porting etc.

MBHD

Snowman,

I would like to see a video of the column shift through the 4 gears. It's different.

Also, did not really get to see the A/F ratio @ W.O.T. in your videos.
I saw 10 psi & maybe 10.0 A/F ratio? How is it running?
Make some more vids of some tire smoke.

Have fun, but be safe.

MBHD

Well the thing is my break is ending in a couple of days and my carb is leaking some gas so I was just going to let it stay for awhile until maybe spring break so I can save up some money for the intercooler and valvetrain til then instead of pushing my luck without an intercooler.

I just figured that the bolt boss would still be a choke point for the air anyway. Would it still flow more air with simple porting and larger valves?

the AFR is high 11s or low 12s depending on ambient temp. I drilled the power vales out the next number up last time I had the carb apart a week ago.

I figure I can do some basic porting in my garage and get a shop to press in new guides and cut for bigger 1.94/1.6 valves. Tom's head rebuid kit looked pretty good on 12bolt for all that. I know it's late but before I call around tomorrow to different machine shops, anyone have any idea how much the machine work would be for the head on this thing? I guess it would just be to cut new valve seats for the bigger valves and press out/in old/new seats

Well, you can get an intercooler & piping for cheap on Ebay.
Just watch out for too cheap of material/products/ thin tubing etc.

That would be the cheapest & would be a good & wise improvement over not running one @ all.

MBHD

I know TLowe was going to do some testing on the heads lumped vs. bossless vs stock bosses. Did that ever happen?

Well I'm planning on doing the intercooler next thing and I should be getting it soon. But after that, would the larger valves/porting be a worthy investment without cutting out the boss?

Yes, installing larger valves will help a lot, even if the boss is still there, your turbo is forcing the A/F mixture in the combustion chambers.
Your turbo will force the A/F mixture past the boss pretty easily.

You could just shave down/profile the boss smaller, just do not go too far where the head bolt goes through.
With the turbo, shaving down the boss will help, just think of it as opening up a window, how much you can open up the window (making the boss smaller) will allow more airflow.

Just don't use a sawzall to do this. LOL.

A porting tool & a couple bits.
http://image.gmhightechperformance.com/f/9412912/0311htp_projls1_10_z.jpg
http://www.diyporting.com/tools.html

BTW, what intercooler did you end up getting?

MBHD

Hey hank

What/how extensive is the machine work for installing screw in studs and at what point are they needed?

It depends on how much spring pressure you have.

My friend does most all of my cyl head machine work, but IIRC, if you go about 300 lbs over the nose of the cam (spring compressed), you would need screw in studs. I can ask if you need a more definate answer.

An old trick to do was to just drill & pin the factory studs. (Not done so much anymore)

I have machined for screw in studs while the cyl head was on the car by a hand drill & the correct cutting tool( not optimal mind you) but I had done it.

Any competent shop can do this for not much money.

MBHD

When narrowing the boss, do not sharpen it into a blade - you can't "cut the air".
Make the leading edge a 3/8" or larger radius.