Inliners International Forums General Discussion Blown and Injected A little more progress on my intake manifold

Did some work for my Camaro.
Here are some pics.
This project takes me so-long guys, sorry it is, but moneys tight,& still not a whole lot of time.
O-well I still try.
MBHD

Lookin good! I likey. Where did the plenum extrusion and velocity stacks come from? http://www.Rossmachineracing.com

Thanks,

I made the velocity stacks, they do not make the size I needed, plenum is from Ross.

I really do not like that it's a 1/4" thick,it's heavy.

MBHD

Looks real good!

I was thinking about buying some of their manifold parts and putting one together, but I'm not going after a lot of HP and figured I didn't need it. Bought a used Clifford ($157 shipped), that I'll install injector bungs in instead.
Can't wait to see yours finished though! Don't be stingy with the pics as you go.

Thanks.



The engine in my car, I am not looking to make a lot of power either,20+ years old, if it will stay together until I get the EFI figured out I am thinking about 400HP to the wheels.

W/a Clifford intake & a SPA turbo manifold a guy in Brazil has made 860 HP w/a siamessed cyl head IIRC.

I am making the intake manifold because nobody makes one readily available.

I can get Hogans manifold to make one but for the price of $1900 & up , I cannot afford that.

I can't wait myself to get this project moving a long , but don't hold your breath,it's going real slow over here, my fault.

I'll post pics when I get more progress.

MBHD

Nice looking stacks. I agree, that intake plenum from Ross is heavy walled. Is there anything available that is thinner?

Keep plugging away. You will get it done.

dammit boy, that looks great!

Thank you!


Thanks,
I do not know of any other places that sells "D" type extrusions w/a thinner wall.

I bought the plenum a few years ago, & have not looked recently for any other ones.

Maybe next manifold,I'll make a sheet aluminum type. Depends on if this manifold will perform, well see.

MBHD

Lookin great! what advantages does the fuel injection offer over a carb?

http://in.answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20091226111207AAKFDuZ

One thing, you can enrichen fuel @ any point of your RPM & take it away the next 100 RPM then add more if you would want to.

Same for your timing,add 20 degrees total @ 2000 rpm, 2100 30 total,2200 back to 5 degrees total,just an example.

Much more precise measuring A/F ratios. Program your injectors to follow a 14.6 A/F ratio @ cruise etc.

Much much more abiltities to follow different engine parameters etc.


MBHD

Hank,
That's looking pretty good.
You are light years ahead of me. (so far )

Paul

Thanks Paul.

Can't say I am light years ahead, I still have a very long way to go.

Update on buying a Hogan Intake manifold for my 12 port head. Price is $1800.00

MBHD

I took my intake runners to a high end muffler/fab shop to try & flare out one end of the tube, did not turn out good, not consistant & off-center.

Cannot really flare out & be on center in the slight bend on the mandrel bent tubing,causes them to stretch more one way,hence off-set centers. I may need to use longer runners for the shop to bend them more evenly (on the straight section)but will add to runner length, I would like them to be as short as possible for max HP.
Plus, I do not want to got too close to the master cylinder & I really do not want to have to relocate the MC.

One of the short tubes the guy used a ram type flaring tool, but cannot be used on my curved/bent tubing (can't hold tubing), other type was just using a standard expanding tool to fit my velocity stack,not good for flow, I want a gradual taper for a smooth transition.





Need some ideas guys, casting the runners would be nice, but don't have that kind of time.

Any ideas guys?

I will have to try & figure out something else.

I have another set of 6 mandrel bent pipes to mess around with.
Ideas?

EFI DIY, can you cast me some runners?
Your's came out great.

MBHD

Are those steel or aluminum? Your plenum is alum.

The whole set-up is aluminum.

MBHD

Why not have some short pieces flared using the 'ram' type method and then just weld them to your bends? Who cares if it has a weld....I actually like the look of welds on fabricated intakes, valve covers etc.
Just my .02

Coop-rat, thanks
That is why the owner of the shop made that 1 ram flared piece & suggested to cut & weld onto the bent pieces, that is an option I am thinking about also.

MBHD

Where did you get the mandrel bent aluminum?

Could you get the flair you what on a straight tube then cut and weld it to your mandrel bend?

It's been a while like 5 years ago IIRC.

I just had a company make the bends for me, can't remember off hand & would need to look @ old receipts.




Yes, that is what coop-rat & I already thought about,Thanks Beater.

MBHD

Why not use the right size tubing to start with that doesn't need to be flared. Most sheetmetal intakes i've seen have the runner end that fits into the plenum radiused to take the place of the velocity stack piece you had machined, that way you dont have to try and transition between 3 seperate pieces, only the plenum and the runner.

If it was me, first I would take a bodywork class at the community college. Then, I would anneal the ends with a torch. Next, I would take a ball peen hammer and a shot bag and just flare out the ends real gentle-like until I got the size and flare I wanted. Then you could work the thicker and thinner areas differently to keep the flare concentric.

Note: this all pre-supposes abilities and coordination that I myself do not possess. I'm hopeful of being bitten by a radioactive spider or falling in a vat of toxic waste though.

The tubing is perfect size for the intake port, I need it to flare open to match my velocity stacks I made. I do believe my velocity stacks would flow better & more even air flow than a sheet metal intake.
I am trying to work w/what I have.
Thanks for the suggestion.


Thanks for the suggestion.

I cut to length the other set of six runners & need to measure to see if it will clear my master cylinder.
Then I will have the muffler shop try & do a better job.
We will see.

MBHD

Good luck and keep at it. If you could not do this stuff you would have quit already. You'll figure it out.
Beater

Thank you.

I'm not K.O.'d yet.

MBHD

Just an update,
muffler shop could not flare my tubes evenly, so I just made a mandrel & pressed out some flared tubing.

Next,, fitting it altogether & get it welded up. Long process,, but having fun.




MBHD

What kind of press did you use? This is fun to watch. Did the flares come out as evenly as you wanted?

My work has a 10+ ton hyd.press.

The flares came out nice & even with the help of the mandrels(
items @ the lft of pics ) I made out of billet steel.

MBHD

3 steps? Did you have to anneal the metal between steps?

No annealing done, it's not that hard & not that soft either.

Not sure what you mean 3 steps?

MBHD

OK I see it now. I was looking at the photo wrong. I thought the two tubes on their sides were other dies. It made me think there were more stages to the process. When I make .219 Donaldson Wasp cases from 30-30 brass it requires annealing and several forming dies. They don't all make it to the end. Let us know how it works.

Lookin good Hank! Makes me wish I had a set! Can't wait to see some more progress....awesome.

Thanks,
it's a slow process,mainly me
Today I worked on the intake runners.


MBHD

Hank, What equipment did you use to turn those stacks?

I use my Craftsman lathe, Made by Altas Clausing

Other step done on my old 1946 Horizontal/Verticle mill made by Rusknok/Sheldon


MBHD

Nice work. Must be Model 0 Sheldon with a Rusnok head adapted? I have a model 0 Sheldon/Vernon with the single tee slot table, no vertical head. Guessing about 1950-ish. Is yours the later three tee slot version? I wish mine was.

I believe the mill is all original. Single slot,(so it's small)wish it was a bit bigger.

The placards are made of brass w/raised lettering.
I changed some bearings out & they had dates of 1946-1947

The horizontal uses a Browne & Sharpe # 9 taper, not common.
I want to upgrade the drive for the horizontal so the drive belts & pulleys wont be outside of the machine so far out.

I only have the Verticle part working right now.



MBHD

http://i965.photobucket.com/albums/ae131/strokersix/DSCN3056.jpg

Here is what mine looks like after I got it cleaned up. It was pretty nasty, a retired production machine. Ugly but still in decent condition. I bought this machine for a gear project that didn't materialize so I have to confess I've not run it more than a couple test cuts. I do have the table feed parts but not installed. They need some repair which is probably the reason it was retired. 3-5209 S/N.

My horizontal spindle drive is enclosed in the base and top castings. Yours is outside the machine? My table feed drive belt is off the back of the spindle, is that what you refer to? Just curious. If you need any photos or anything from my machine to help you with yours let me know, I'll try to help.

http://www.lathes.co.uk/sheldon/page6.html

Thats cool, they look the same!

My mill looks pretty much the same. Mine is a cast iron base.

I guess the Rusnok (SP) vertical mill is adapted?

I'll have to take some pics.

As I said, the horizontal part is not together though.

The drive for the horizontal part is partially inside big 220 volt motor in the base,varible speed (pulley V-grove, gets wider or smaller to increase or decrease speed,same as your's I believe.
Here are some pics, sorry for the mess & not so good pics








Any pics form the drive system would be cool to see as mine was apart when I got it.
Thanks

MBHD