You're welcome. I hope it at least gave you something to consider. I mentioned the shackles and not sliders because I didn't know how deeply involved you were. Sliders are the way to go. The easiest way I ever figured out how to allow for a proper length slider slot was to measure an unmounted spring from eye to eye with the tape snug to the arch of the spring. Lets say its 44 inches. Then measure from eye to eye in a tight straight line. Lets say its 40 inches. 4 inches is the maximum the spring will extend if and when it flattens straight out so to prevent binding in the slider the slot needs to be 4 inches long.
AFCO and others usually have enough travel but it doesn't hurt to check.
If you end up placing a jacking bolt in direct contact on a spring your rates will change. A jacking bolt set up on the slider won't have any effect on the springs rate and is usually easier to deal with when sorting out your chassis handling. Even with parallel front leafs the axle can move side to side under cornering stress so a panhard bar of some sort will be helpful.
The only other thing that is a pain is setting up for different caster angles left and right. With a beam axle this involves 2 separate bends, or getting one side correct with a caster shim and then bending the other side alone.
10 degree bank isn't a lot. I might go about 50% stiffer on the right to start with and if the car is loose and doesn't seem to respond to the usual adjustments then I'd keep stiffening the right front until it tightened up. Just as examples: 600lb LF and 900lb RF, or 800lb LF and 1200lb RF. (RF is 1/2 again more than the LF.)
Mike
