Inliners International Forums General Discussion Engines 250 Machining Cost - realistic?

Just was quoted $600 for the machine shop to machine the head with 1.8 intake and 1.6 exhaust, and new guides, 3-angle valve job. $1,000 for magnaflux, boring for 307 pistons, grinding crank journals (small knick), boring cam bearing surface (scratch/gouge), balancing, freeze seals, etc.
He estimated $500 for parts (pistons, valves and guides, timing gears, seals, etc.

That's $2,100 and I'm assembling it. Is that in the ballpark? Seems excessive to me.

Comments....

You can spend more then that just to build the head depending what you want to put in it. And to me Thats cheap.for a whole motor build.

I'd say your in the ballpark. I've got all of that in just the block. There were a few additions, polished rods plus, fly cut the pistons, decking, balance, and ...

Larry

YES THAT IS HIGH IN MY OPINION. also have the shop install hardened exhaust valve seats. get your pistons, rings, bearings , oil pump on ebay for cheap too & if i was going big valves i,d do 1.94 intakes. i,ve got a good connestion for vale train hardware. if you want it pm me. hi-quality u.s.a. made stuff straight from mgf.
just my opinion mind you.
bob

You are going to more HP & torque & flow by installing 1.85" valve & some lump ports.

W/a 194" intake you can get pretty thin in the valve seat area & possibly get into the water jackets,,,it's not worth the minimal gain you would get,,,,but I would install some 1.85" intake valves any day of the week w/lump ports over just a 1.94 valve w/no lumps.It will out perform a 194 valve w/no lumps.
Talk to Twisted6 I.I #3220 about what your options should be & what he recommends.

I used to pay 20 per hole for boring,IIRC,,magnaflux is cheap ,turning a crank 150 tops.
180 or so for cast 307 pistons P.A.W.
Intake valves $4.00 ea,exh,3-6 dollars each. PAW old price list.gaskets set 32-80 dollars.

Cylinder heads is where you could spend more money than a stock bottom end.

MBHD
Just my two cents.

Seems a bit low compared to around here....

Gentlemen;

I've noticed a trend lately. :rolleyes:

The 'parts stores' often pay a bonus monthly to salesmen and with gas so high they have a tendency to "hike up" anything that's non stock.

Some take extra care too.

It really pays to "go shopping" here. Especialy with so much at stake on a custom engine.

Happy trails.

I went on www.napaonline.com and added up the pieces to do a rebuild with new pistons, bearings, gaskets, oil pump, lifters, timing set and soft plugs and the total reached 536+ with no cam, valves, valve springs or other extras.
the only performance piece was the hi per oil pump. No performance cam and no trick valve train gear. You could get quite a bit of money in the head just with parts if you replaced all the valves, put in performance springs and retaining pieces.

Those prices are about what I would expect a machine shop to charge for the parts.

As far as labor costs you might get a better deal in Seattle or Tacoma but you would have to do the driving back and forth and that adds up in a hurry. The main thing in picking an automotive machinist is pick the guy who is going to do it right the first time.
I think I would want more exact labor costs (itemized) up front. they should be able to give you a breakdown on the labor before they start.
They should be able to tell you exactly what the parts for the short block will cost you and unless the head needs a lot of extras they should be able to come pretty close on that.

I went back through your posts from day one and I cannot find what year/ model of vehicle you are working on. The 250 I would assume is in a mid 70s GM something. Most if not all 250 Chevs should have hardened valve seats from the factory so that shouldn't be an issue.