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#9488 11/02/05 11:10 AM
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Well, it is a definite that I have a blown head gasket on my 292 that is probably causing most of my overheating problem, or wishfully thinking, all of it. I'm going to replace it this weekend to see if that does it. Is a regular felpro gasket from an autozone good enought to use? I drove the truck hard sometimes cuz when I use it, I use it like a truck (pulls stumps easy), so I don't want to blow another gasket anytime soon if that is what caused it.
From the outside, the engine looks bone stock, I don't know if it has even been bored before. I already have the valve cover gasket (felpro), what about the mani gasket, I guess I gotta take all that off too? Any recomendations to make that intake and exhaust come off easy? If I'm carefull, is it possible to leave the carb and exhuast mani attached to the intake? Thanks for any suggestions.


1968 Chevy C-30 292 SM 465
1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee 242 4.0
2005 Jeep Wrangler SE 2.4L & 6 spd
#9489 11/02/05 11:49 AM
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One more question....if they look ok and I keep track of where they came from, can I reuse the rocker arms and push rods? thanks


1968 Chevy C-30 292 SM 465
1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee 242 4.0
2005 Jeep Wrangler SE 2.4L & 6 spd
#9490 11/02/05 02:40 PM
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If you are sure it is just the head gasket go for it. It may be worthwhile to make sure the surface is flat; sometimes they can warp a few thousandths which can lead to another failure. It would probably be worthwhile to buy a complete Felpro head set. You can compare prices, but I bet it won't be much if any more than a new head and intake/exhaust gasket.That way you will have everything you might need. It is generally easier to pull the intake and exhaust off the head; the head weighs about 60lbs by itself.

Unless you can see wear on the rockers and pushrods, there is no reason you can use them.


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#9491 11/02/05 05:56 PM
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Yes i would Make sure the Head is Flat(true) as for rockers and push rods It won't matter which location they came from.


Larry/Twisted6
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#9492 11/03/05 01:02 AM
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Is it possible for the up and coming gearhead like myself to check the head for warpage or is it too percise that a machine shop has to do that? It would be easier if I could check myself, but the closest machine shop is probably only about 15 minutes away from me tops, so it ain't a big deal. I'm going to take pictures of what it looks like in there and the cylinder walls and all and post em so you guys can tell me a little about what kind of condition my engine block and all is in. That would be a big help to me in deciding the future of it since I don't know much about telling the condition of it. Thanks for the feedback.


1968 Chevy C-30 292 SM 465
1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee 242 4.0
2005 Jeep Wrangler SE 2.4L & 6 spd
#9493 11/03/05 01:31 PM
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Dear John;

Have the Machine Shop surface your head.

It's the best insurance you can get.

Good luck. \:\)


John M., I.I. #3370

"There are no shortcuts to any place worth going". -Anon
#9494 11/03/05 02:33 PM
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Hi John, when getting resurfacing done, does the head have to be disassembled or can it just be left assembled when a shop does that?


1968 Chevy C-30 292 SM 465
1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee 242 4.0
2005 Jeep Wrangler SE 2.4L & 6 spd
#9495 11/03/05 03:08 PM
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Dear John;

Either way. Don't take it apart if it looks okay.

The first rule of auto mechanics; "if it's not broke, don't fix it".


Good luck. \:\)


John M., I.I. #3370

"There are no shortcuts to any place worth going". -Anon
#9496 11/03/05 03:19 PM
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Thanks John H, that is just what I wanted to hear \:\)


1968 Chevy C-30 292 SM 465
1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee 242 4.0
2005 Jeep Wrangler SE 2.4L & 6 spd
#9497 11/04/05 11:09 AM
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I talked to the guy at my local machine shop today and I can bring the head into him tomorrow. He was real enthusiastic about it when I told him it was a 292. But he will be able to check it out for me and let me know. He even said he may have an old core laying around somewhere. I gotta ask him if it is just the head or the whole block too. Maybe if he wants to sell it cheap, I may buy it from him to and get working on a nice replacement engine. He says he hasn't had anyone messing with one of those sixes in a long time around here. If it is the whole engine block too, think I should get it? I figure why not, they aren't growing on trees anymore. I'll post some pics of how nasty mine looks as soon as I can so you guys can tell me if there is still life left in my short block....I have a feeling the rings are worn badly cuz of all the blow by I get. Is it ok to like run my finger in the bore to feel the condition of the cylinder wall or should I not touch that if I'm not doing anything with it at this time? I just want to feel what I can't see as to how badly worn the walls are.


1968 Chevy C-30 292 SM 465
1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee 242 4.0
2005 Jeep Wrangler SE 2.4L & 6 spd
#9498 11/04/05 12:43 PM
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J;

Sure you can and should check it.

There's a portion of the cylinder wall (top)that the rings can't reach & unworn. This is called the "ring ridge" and is how you tell how much the cylinder has worn visualy.

A 292" engine has a 'lot of meat' in the deck & runs cool as a result. There shouldn't be much there, just enough to catch your fingernail on.

Walt is correct in that 'verticle lines' in the cylinder wall is a 'bad sign' but not the end of the world. This happens when the engine is run W/O an air filter. If there is major groves then a ring may be broke, like he said.

He's also correct in saying you should get the other engine too. You could build a 'killer' 302 CID with it for fun later.

Good luck. \:\)


John M., I.I. #3370

"There are no shortcuts to any place worth going". -Anon

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