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We started the shop expansion last year in March. Life threw a big curve ball at me since then. Now getting my feet back under me. The shop expansion is nearly complete. This is the area that holds the majority of inventory, and packing. Also made a impossible to find bolt. Making another casting to include 292 water neck with bypass hose also.

GMC 302 Inline 6. Former military truck application. Sealed oil pan, setup for electric fuel pump (no mechanical fuel pump opening on the block).

Engine was sitting at a family member�s place in a shed. I do not know when it ran last. Machine shop tag indicates it was rebuilt in 1962 and has .60 cylinders, .10 over mains, and .10 over rods. I do not know if that's the last time it was rebuilt, any history my family

Appears to be a mostly complete long block. Missing carb and water pump.

Block casting number is 2194202

I�ve attempted to rotate it on the back of the crank and did not want to rotate so I would assume a complete teardown and rebuild will be needed.

If you have specific questions or would like to see a specific picture please let me know and I will provide what I can.

Asking $400. Engine is in Wilmington, NC.

(I will be cross posting this listing on several sites and local marketplaces)

Bench, Engines, High Perf - it's on topic. The most prolific poster (in terms of guesstimation) went by the moniker DeuceCoupe. Pop it in the search box and be prepared to read.

I'll see you there. Hope to be there around 10:30.
Luke

Is that a new grommet? You could try some RTV.

I know I am a little late to the game here but I thought I would mention a few things. Line boring these blocks is not really anything you want to do unless you absolutely have to. Every main is a different size and the machining process changes the orientation of the cam and crank gear, as well as the neoprene rear seal. So if you are going to go this route, you must make it clear that the absolute minimum amount of material possible is to be removed from the caps before the boring, yes boring not line honing.

Me, I would probably weld up/braze the broken lower part and skip the expensive line boring.

The issue of the screws coming in from the pan side to secure the timing cover was a left over from the main shim era. With the big trucks, after a lot of miles, you pulled the truck over the work pit, pulled the pan, removed the two screws from the front main cap, and from there you could remove the bearing cap and adjust the front bearing. Or, you did an in chassis rebuild, including the adjustment of the main bearings. Otherwise, if the screws were threaded to the main cap from the front of the cover, you would have to tear the radiator out, remove the screws from the front, which you may or may not be able to do with the balancer installed, and then pull the front main cap to adjust that particular main bearing.

After 56, the bearings were precision bearings, no shims, and so no adjustments. GM just opted not to redesign the timing cover, plate and front cap.